Taboula has two things going for it: location and quality. In terms of location, it’s the only dining option outside of a hotel anywhere near the embassies section of Garden City. At lunchtime, Taboula gets a tremendous boost from this monopolistic status–it is packed with British and US diplomats, and their various hangers-on.
But this is not by any means the only thing going for it. Taboula also has the great advantage of being very good. In a town with plenty of Lebanese options, Taboula stands competitively at the upper end of Cairo’s Lebanese offerings.
Walking into Taboula, it takes some time for your eyes to adjust. Its dark basement location, low to nearly non-existent lighting, dark hued wall decorations, the cloud of shisha smoke that greets you; all this leads to a dark and intimate atmosphere. If you’re smoke intolerant, don’t worry, pipes are only in a particular section; the worst you’ll have to deal with in the rest of the restaurant is the more normal Marlboro variety of haze.
Once your eyes adjust, the results are not at all displeasing. Lovely old photos are arranged around the walls, and the decoration has the earth tones of orange and brown characteristic of many of other restaurants founded by Taboula’s founder Raouf Lotfi, including Tabasco and Abu Sid. Elsewhere in the restaurant lovely antique brass and silver veils and ouds are on display.
Once the food starts arriving, the results are equally satisfying. All the normal selections are available, including a hearty range of cold and hot appetizers, and a variety of grilled meats. We are frequent visitors, and we nearly always order the sautéed garlic potatoes, and a delightful version of sojouk sausages served with a spicy tomato paste. All the basics are also good; fresh taboula, tangy fattouch, and meats accompanied by copious toumeyya garlic paste.
Taboula works equally well as a grand dining expedition, lingering over an endless procession of Lebanese dishes, or as a quick bite away from the office. The food is good and fresh, helped in part by the large turnover that Taboula’s steady stream of visitors
entails. The service is professional and prompt. The setting is discrete and intimate, and it’s considerably more affordable than some of the other Lebanese options around town.
I’ve always wondered what Garden City residents and business owners must think of the security arrangements which go along with the US and British embassies nearby. While the peace of the pedestrian streets is pleasant, the area also appears devoid of life. Taboula’s quality is attested to by the fact that it draws a regular crowd in spite of the difficultly in reaching it.
Details: 1 Latin America Street, Garden City; Tel. 2792 5261. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Lunch for two: around 150LE.
